A Day trip to Knoydart

This trip takes us once again through Moidart heading north to Mallaig. Before we go into the trip to Knoydart, let just stop and say a few things about Mallaig. Mallaig has become a very popular destination due the Jacobite steam train (Harry Porter train!). This can therefore make Mallaig extremely busy when the trains are in the station. However, a trip to Mallaig has plenty to offer, from good fish and chips, ice cream, the chance to watch the Calmac ferries come in and out. It is still a busy working fishing port with some nice we craft shops and a great second hand book shop. There are new toilet facilities in the car park and electric plug-in points for people looking to charge their cars. Plus, the Co-op is always on hand to stock up on supplies.

Once in Mallaig look for the Western Isle Cruise kiosk to get your tickets for the ferry to Knoydart. These can be booked online, and Western Isles offer other services, like 1 hour wildlife trip.

Knoydart is a peninsula situated between Loch Nevis and Loch Hourn, cut off from any road networks, which makes it the one of the remotest communities on the British mainland. Access is by boat or foot. The ferry takes just over 30mins, and dogs and bikes can be taken on the ferry (there is a small charge for bikes). You land in Inverie, the main village.

We didn’t take bikes this time, but would consider this for a future visit or you can hire bikes once in Knoydart, the road network and cycle paths all look good an would allow you to explore further afield. Plus, there are a couple of mountain bike trails for the more adventurous!

Our first stop was the Knoydart Pottery and Tearoom, as we had the dog we sat outside, but there were plenty of tables both inside and outside. We sampled both their delicious bacon rolls and scones with jam and cream – yum yum yum!

After this we decided we better walk off all the good food. There are several trails but thought Knoydart in a nutshell would be the one for us. This is well signposted so you can do it yourself or you can arrange for a guided tour via Knoydart Foundation Ranger services. This walk takes you through the wood behind Inverie and along to the campsite at Long Beach, where are some compostable toilets. You also past the community gardens and bunkhouse, though neither were open at the moment due to Covid.

The path takes you back into the village, along the waterfront. Here we decided that before we headed off in the opposite direction, we would stop at the Knoydart foundation shop for some juice. There are outside tables and chairs across the road from the shop, so we sat and enjoyed out drink while looking out on Loch Nevis.

The old Forge pub is next to the shop, but it is currently closed, and the community are hoping to buy it, fingers crossed this happens and it will be open for our next visit. We had a great night in their over 15 years ago when we sailed into Loch Nevis!

Walking in the opposite direction the road actually goes all the way to Doune, but this was too far a walk as the ferry was coming back at 3pm. However, we did find a nice path off the road and headed up the hill for some great views down Loch Nevis. After this we headed back towards the village looking to see where the Knoydart Brewery and where the Lookout Seafood and Steak Bistro were located.

Then, it was back to the pier before we boarded the ferry back to Mallaig. And quick stop at the co-op to pick up something for dinner! Another great wee day out.

For more information on what there is to see and do in Knoydart see Visit Knoydart - A Guide to the Knoydart Peninsula